Hook sewing machine



Aug. 20, 1957 Filed March 11, 1952 H. ALFANDRE HOOK SEWING MACHINE 11Sheets-Sheet l MM m Qb-L ATTORNEYS Aug. 20, 1957 Filed March 11, 1952 H.ALFANDRE HOOK SEWING MACHINE 11 Sheets-Sheet 5 INVENTOR 174/3? V41l-Z/VDAi ATTORNEYS Aug. 20, 1957 H. ALFANDRE 2,803,204

HOOK SEWING MACHINE Filed March 11, 1952 ll Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR#A/PRYAAFJA/DHE ATTORN EYS H. ALFANDRE HOOK SEWING MACHINE Aug, 20, 1957Filed March 11, 1952 ll Sheets-Sheet 5 w 2 m W a M LX ,M 0% w m WU; W:M/ e W H =INVENTOR 174/70) AlFA/VD/PE BYGMILMQJL ATTORNEY 1957 H.ALFANDRE v HOOK SEWING MACHINE Filed March 11, 1952 11 Sheets-Sheet 6 Tlb.

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HOOK SEWING MACHINE Filed March 11, 1952 ll Sheets-Sheet 8 l N V E N TOR AMAEYAZ FANDAE BYWM ATTO R N EYS H. ALFANDRE HOOK SEWING MACHINE Aug.20, 1957 11 sneaks-sheet 9 Filed March 11, 1952 ATTORNEYS Aug. 20, 1957H. ALFANDRE HOOK SEWING MACHINE 11 Sheets-Sheet 10 Filed march 11, 1952INVENTOR //4/P/?y 4154mm:

ATTORNEYS United States Patent 2,803,204 HOOK SEWING MACHINE HarryAlfandre, Jamaica, N. Y.

Application March 11, 1952, Serial No. 275,967

21 Claims. (Cl. 112-105 This invention relates to a machine for sewinghooks on tapes or straps. Although the machine is adapted for otherpurposes, it is intended primarily for supplying lengths of fabric tapeprovided with hooks spaced at predetermined intervals thereon so thatthe tape may be thereafter cut in desired lengths for use especially inthe manufacture of ladies undergarments.

The hooks, of the type with which the present invention is concerned,are customarily provided with spaced arms and with an intermediate billadapted to releasably engage a companion eyelet. Therefore, it isnecessary that the needle be reciprocated laterally, as well asvertically, to sew across the arms, as well as between the arms. Thisrequires that the hook and the tape be moved longitudinally for sewingbetween the arms but that said movement be interrupted for sewing acrossthe arms. To insure proper stitching across the arms, as well as betweenthe arms, it is necessary that the hook be properly positioned relativeto the needle for each of said operations Accordingly, it is one of theprincipal objects of the present invention to provide means for movingthe hook to each stitching position thereof, and for releasablyretaining the hook in each of said positions. In accordance with thepresent invention, the tape is fed intermittently through the machineand the hooks are individually supplied in timed relation to the tapetravel and sewn thereon. The provision of a hopper apparatus from whichthe hooks are automatically supplied, fed to and positioned on the tapein proper disposition for the sewing operation, constitutes anotherobject of the present invention.

Another object of the present invention is to provide for the securementof the hooks in predetermined spaced intervals on the tape. In thisconnection, the provision of means for varying the spacing between thehooks or the arrangement thereof on the tape constitutes still anotherobject of the present invention.

A further object is generally to improve the art of manufacturing tapesor straps provided with hooks secured in spaced intervals longitudinallythereon and to provide a highly eflicient apparatus for that purpose.

The above and other objects, features and advantages of the presentinvention will be more fully understood from the following descriptionconsidered in connection with the accompanying illustrative drawings.

In the drawings:

Fig. 1 is a perspective view of a hook sewing machine, pursuant to thepresent invention;

Fig. 2 is a front elevation, on a of the machine;

Fig. 3 is a rear elevation of the machine, on a larger scale;

Fig. 4 is a side elevation taken in the direction of the arrow 4 in Fig.3, portions of the machine being broken away for purposes ofillustration;

F Fig. 5 is a sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of larger scale, ofpart Fig. 6 is a sectional view taken on the line 6-6 of Fig. 5, withparts broken away for illustration;

Fig. 6A is a schematic representation of the operation of the camillustrated in Fig. 6;

Fig. 7 is a fragmentary side elevation taken in the direction of thearrow 7 in Fig. 3;

Fig. 8 is a sectional view, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line 8-8of Fig. 2, parts being broken away for purpoess of illustration, thetape being omitted, and showing a hook as delivered from the chute ofthe hopper apparatus;

Fig. 9 is a sectional view taken on the line 9-9 of Fig. 8, the tapebeing included;

Fig. 10 is a sectional view, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line10-10 of Fig. 2;

Fig. 11 is a sectional View, on an enlarged scale, taken on the line11-11 of Fig. 8;

Fig. 12 is an enlarged fragmentary plan view of a portion of Fig. 8,including the tape and showing a hook in position thereon at the startof a hook sewing cycle;

Fig. 13 is a sectional view taken on the line 13-13 of Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 diagrammatically illustrates the start of one hook sewing cyclein connection with the control cam therefor;

Fig. 15 is a view similar to Fig. 14 and illustrates the cam in positionat the end of the cycle;

Fig. 16 illustrates a hook on a greatly enlarged scale;

Figs. 17, 18 and 19 are diagrammatic illustrations of the hookpositioning mechanism and the movements of the hook relative to thesewing needle during a hook sewing cycle;

Fig. 20 illustrates the hook stitching operation with the hookpositioned as in Fig. 17;

Fig. 21 illustrates the stitching operation across the bridge of thehook, while the latter is being moved from the position illustrated inFig. 17 to that illustrated in Fig. 18;

Fig. 22 illustrates the stitching operation with the hook positioned asin Fig. 18;

Fig. 23 illustrates the stitching operation for one complete hook sewingcycle;

Fig. 23A illustrates a tape arrangement wherein hooks are paired on thetape, and the pairs are separated by approximately twice the distancebetween the individual hooks of each pair;

Fig. 24 is a sectional view taken on the line 24-24 of Fig. 23;

Fig. 25 is a plan view of the hopper with its cover removed;

Fig. 26 is a rear view of the hopper;

Fig. 27 is at sectional view taken on the line 27-27 of Fig. 25;

Fig. 28 is a sectional view, on a larger scale, taken on the line 28-28of Fig. 27;

Fig. 29 is'a sectional view taken on the line 29-29 of Fig. 28;

Fig. 30 is a sectional view taken on the line 30-30 of Fig. 28;

Fig. 31 is a sectional view taken on the line 31-31 of Fig. 28;

Fig. 32 is a perspective view of one of the guide elements illustratedin Fig. 28;

Fig. 33 illustrates a portion of the hopper chute provided with a hookgauge mechanism; and

Fig. 34 is a sectional view taken on the line 34-34 Fig. 33.

Briefly described, the sewing machine 50, of the present invention, isprovided with a hook securing or hook sewing station having a sewingneedle assembly 52 which is mounted fopvertical reciprocation, in theusual manner. A strip or tape, 54, preferably of a suitable fabric,

is threaded into the machine, from a supply thereof (not illustrated),and is moved intermittently past said station and underneath the needleassembly. The hooks or fastener elements 56 (Fig. 16) are fed from thesupply hopper 58 into a chute 60 from which, for a hook sewing cycle ofthe machine, they are deposited individually on the tape 54, in timedrelation with the movement of the tape past the needle assembly orsewing mechanism 52, the hook then being positioned relative to theneed-1e for the sewing thereof on the tape. As here shown, the machine50 is adapted primarily for use with hooks of the general type of hook56 which comprises a bill or operatlve portion 62 adapted to overlie thetape for engagement with a companion hook eye of well known type, and abase portion constituted by the eyelets 64 and 66 which are sewn betweenfolds in the tape. Said eyelets are separated by the bridge 68, whichunderlies the bill, and the arms 70 and 72, of said eyelets, extendlaterally of the bill. At the start of the hook sewing cycle, the tapemovement is interrupted, the needle is oscillated laterally across thearm 70 to stitch the latter onto the tape, as illustrated in Fig. 20.Thereafter, the tape is moved while a stitch is taken across the bridge68 and below the free end of the bill 62, as illustrated in Fig. 21, tosecure the bridge onto the tape. Thereafter the tape movement is againinterrupted while the needle is oscillated laterally across the arm 72for securing said arm in the tape, as illustrated in Fig. 22, followingwhich the tape is moved through the machine and past the needle for aseries of stitches extending longitudinally of the tape until asucceeding hook is to be sewn in the tape, at which point the movementof the tape is halted and the succeedmg hook is sewn thereto. Thestitching involved in one complete hook sewing cycle is shown in Fig.23. More specifically, the hook sewing cycle is initiated by theformation of a series of three cross stitches 74 across the arm 70 ofthe hook. Thereafter, an additional stitch 76 is made in alignment withthe cross stitches 74. It will be understood that the tape is stationaryduring the formatron of the stitches 74 and 76 and that the needle 52Ais oscillated laterally to form these stitches. The tape is then movedlongitudinally in the direction of the arrow 78 for the formation of thesingle stitch 80 which clears the free end of the bill 62 and whichextends across the bridge 68 of the hook. The movement of the tape isagain stopped while the single lateral stitch 82 and the three crossstitches 84 are formed, the latter extending across the arm 72 of thehook. Thereafter, the tape is again moved in the same direction for theformation of the continuous series of stitches 86, which extendlongitudinally of the tape. It will be understood that this completesone hook sewing cycle of the mechanism. The machine, as now constructed,preferably is so timed that the tape moves past the needle which isoperated at a rate to form approximately twelve stitches to the inch, sothat adjacent hooks are separated by a minimum of approximately of aninch which represents the spacing between the centers of the bills 62 ofthe hooks, as illustrated in Fig. 23. Therefore, it will be understoodthat one hook sewing cycle extends over approximately of an inch of thetape, longitudinally of the latter. However, it will be understood, ashereinafter explained in detail, that hooks may be omitted, as desired,so that the stitching 86 will continue in units of /8 of an inch foreach hook that is omitted. Furthermore, it is within the scope of thepresent invention to obtain cycles which are more or less than /8 of aninch.

The tape 54, as presented to the machine from the supply thereof,comprises a continuous strip, preferably of a suitable fabric, which hasthree longitudinal fold lines which are formed therein, as at 88, 90 and92, respectively, as best illustrated in Figs. 20 and 24. These foldlines provide the tape with a double thickness short leg 94 whichoverlies the double thickness long leg 96 and, as il lustrated in Figs.2 and 9, when threaded into the machine,

4 the fold line 92 extends adjacent the end of the chute 60 whichoverlies the long leg 96, for a purpose to be hereinafter described.

As illustrated in Fig. 1, the machine 50 is mounted on a suitable workbench or support 98. More specifically, provision is made for laterallyspaced members 100 and 1512, which are mounted on the bench 98, andwhich carry the base plate 1414 of the machine, which is apertured, asat 165 (Fig. 8) to accommodate the needle. A conventional machinehousing 106 is provided on the base plate, and the usual main driveshaft 1418 (Figs. 4 and 5) of the sewing machine extends therethrough. Abelt driven wheel 11% (Figs. 1 and 3) is secured to one end of saidshaft and is engaged by the belt 112 which is driven by a sewing machinemotor or other suitable prime mover, as is well known to those skilledin the art. The main drive shaft 168 is provided with a suitable wormgear 118 which is in mesh with a companion gear 112 for driving theshaft 114 which extends transversely of said first mentioned shaft. Saidshaft 114 is suitably journaled in the bearing portions 116 and 118 ofthe housing 186.

In order to provide for the intermittent movement of the tape relativeto the needle assembly 52, the shaft 114 is provided with a dual camunit 120 which floats thereon and which is intermittently rotated in thedirection of the arrow 122 in Fig. 6, as hereinafter described indetail. Said dual cam unit comprises the integral cams 124 and 126. Thecam 124 controls the intermittent feed of the tape and the cam 126controls the lateral oscillation of the needle assembly, in timedrelation therewith.

As best illustrated in Fig. 6, the cam 124 is provided with the longdwells or high portions 128 and 138 which are separated by the notchesor low portions 132 and 134. A cam roller 136 rides on the periphery ofthe cam 124, said roller being carried at one end of the follower 138which is pivotally mounted on the housing 106, as at 149. A spring 142,interconnecting the follower and the housing, biases the roller 136against the periphery of the cam 124. At its other end the follower isprovided with a link 144 which is vertically reciprocated, as indicatedby the arrow 146 in Fig. 4, in response to the movement of the followerabout its pivot 140. At its free end, the link 14-4 is provided with ahorizontally extending pin member 148 which moves in the directions ofthe arrow 150 in Fig. 5, in response to the vertical reciprocation ofthe link 144, for a purpose hereinafter described.

A tape drive shaft 150 (Figs. 3-5) is suitably journaled in bearings 152and 154 carried by the support member 100. At one end thereof, saidshaft is provided with a ratchet gear 156 which is keyed thereon. Inorder to rotate the shaft 150, provision is made for a bell crank lever158 which floats thereon and is positioned between the gear 156 and thebearing 152. At one end thereof, the bell crank is connected to the link160 which is vertically reciprocated, as indicated by arrows 162. Itwill be understood that the reciprocation of the link 160 is effected bysuitable operative engagement between said link and the continuouslyoperable main drive shaft 108. At its other end, the crank 158 isprovided with a pivoted pawl 164 which engages in the peripheral teethof the ratchet 156. A pin 166, which extends through the pawl 164, isinterconnected with the bell crank 158 by a spring 168 which biases thepawl into engagement with the ratchet teeth. Therefore, it will bereadily apparent that, in response to the reciprocation of the link 160by the main drive shaft 108, the bell crank lever 158 pivots about theshaft 150 so that the pawl 164 engages each succeeding tooth on theratchet gear 156 for driving the latter in the direction of the arrow170, whereby to rotate the shaft 150 in said direction. It will be notedthat the support member 100 is apertured, as at 172, to provide for theconnection of the bell crank lever to the link 160. An anti-backlashpawl 174 is pivotally mounted on a stud 176 carried by the base plate104 and is biased into engagement with the ratchet 156 by the spring 178In order to interrupt the rotation of the tape-feed shaft 150 by thebell crank lever 158 and the pawl 164, the previously mentioned pinmember 148 underlies the end of the pin 166 which projects from the pawl164, as best illustrated in Fig. 3. Therefore, it will be understoodthat when one of the dwell portions 128 or 130, of the cam 124, are inengagement with the follower roller 136, the follower 138 is pivoted ina clockwise direction, viewing Fig. 6, against the bias of the spring142, whereby to raise the link 144 and the pin 148 carried thereby. Thepin thereupon lifts the pawl-pin 166 and moves the pawl 164 out ofengagement with the ratchet 156 to interrupt the rotation of the tapedrive shaft 150. As previously indicated, the tape remains stationaryduring the formation of the three cross stitches 74 and the adjacentsingle stitch 76, as well as during the formation of the single stitch82 and the three cross stitches 84. Fig. 6 illustrates the position ofthe cam 124 at the termination of the series of continuous stitches 86at the end of a hook sewing cycle. Therefore, it will be apparent that,if the following cycle is also to be a hook sewing cycle, the rotationof cam 124 in the direction of the arrow 122 will cause the dwell 130 toengage the roller 136 and thereby discontinue the operation of the driveshaft 150. While the roller rides on the dwell 130, it will beunderstood that the cross stitches 74 and the single stitch 76 are beingformed, after which the roller is engaged in the notch 132 so that thespring 142 is effective to pivot the follower 138 in the oppositedirection to drive the tape drive shaft 150 for the comparatively shortdistance required to form the single stitch 80 across the bridge 68 ofthe hook. At this point the roller begins to ride on the dwell 128 forthe formation of the single lateral stitch 82 and the three crossstitches 84 during which time the shaft 150 and the tape are stationary.The roller then engages in the cam notch 134, as illustrated in Fig. 6,and said engagement continues during the time required to form theseries of continuous stitches 86 during which time the tape moves in thedirection of the arrow 78 in Fig. 23 to terminate a single hookstitching cycle. In the event that the next cycle is not to be a hookstitching cycle but is to be a continuous stitching cycle, ashereinafter described in detail, the roller 136 remains in engagementwith the notch 134 so that the tape continues to advance for acontinuous stitching cycle which provides approximately of an inch ofcontinuous stitching along the tape.

To provide for the axial feeding of the tape past the needle, the tapedrive shaft 150 is provided at its other end with the gear 180 (Fig. 3),and with the knurled wheel 182, both of which are keyed thereto. Thegear 180 meshes with a cooperating gear 184 which is keyed on a shaft186 journaled for rotation in a yoke 188. Said yoke carries an upwardlyextending rod 198 which extends through the bearings 192 and 194 securedto the needle assembly housing 196. A split collar 198 is secured on therod and a spring 288 is disposed thereon between the collar and thebearing 194 for biasing the yoke 188 downwardly. From the. foregoing, itwill be apparent that the yoke is mounted for movement in a direction toand away from the tape drive shaft 150 to effect the meshing of thegears 180 and 184 for driving the shaft 186, or to effect thedisengagement thereof. Said shaft 186 is also provided with a knurledwheel 282 which is keyed thereon and which abuts the knurled wheel 182.In order to retract the wheel 202 from the companion wheel 182 to permitthe threading of the tape therethrough, a hand lever 284 is pivotallymounted, as at 206, on a bracket 208 secured to the needle housing 196,said bracket being provided with the aforementioned bearings 192 and 194for the shaft 190. As best illustrated in Fig. 7, it will be apparentthat, when the lever 284 is rotated in a clockwise direction, the collar198 will move upwardly and carry the yoke in the same direction againstthe bias of the spring 2%. Upon the release of said lever, the springwill be effective to cause the movement of the yoke downwardly so thatthe gear 184 will mesh with the gear 180 and the wheel 202 will abut thewheel 182. Therefore, it wiil be apparent that when the shaft 150 isrotated to rotate the wheel 182 in the direction of the arrow 210 inFig. 7, the companion wheel 202 will be rotated in the direction of thearrow 212 and the tape which is threaded between said wheels will moveoutwardly of the machine in the direction of the arrow 214. It will benoted, as illustrated in Fig. 3, that the wheel 202 is centrallyrecessed, as at 216, to accommodate the hooks which have been sewn onthe tape.

As previously indicated, the cam element 126 of the dual cam membercontrols the lateral oscillation of the needle assembly 52 for formingthe cross stitches 74 and 76 as well as the cross stitches 82 and 84. Itwlll be understood that the needle assembly 52 is mounted in the housing196 for said lateral oscillation, as well as for the verticalreciprocation thereof, as is well known to those skilled in the art.Referring now to Figs. 2, 5 and 6, it will be noted that the housing 106carries a bracket 218 which is provided with a bearing sleeve 220 inwhich there is journaled a rocker shaft 222. At one end thereof, a crank224 is keyed to said shaft and is provided with a roller 226 which rideson the periphery of the cam 126. At its other end, a crank 228 is keyedto the rocker shaft 222. Said crank is provided with an internal slot230 through which there extends the bolt 232 on which there is pivotallymounted the link 234. A nut washer 235 prevents the withdrawl of thebolt from the slot. At its other end, a spring 236 interconnects thecrank 228 and the housing 106 for biasing the roller 226 against theperiphery of the cam 126. At its other end, the link 234 is secured tothe needle assembly by a bolt 238.

The cam 126 is so contoured as to effect the rocking of the crank 224 inthe directions indicated by the arrows 240 in Fig. 6, whereby to rockthe shaft 222, as indicated by the arrows 242, which in turn will rockthe crank 228 as indicated by the arrows 244 and thereby effect thelateral reciprocation of the link 234, as indicated by the arrows 246,for oscillating the needle assembly laterally as indicated by the arrows248, in Fig. 2, for effecting the cross stitches. More specifically, thecam element 126 is so shaped as to effect said lateral oscillation ofthe needle assembly during the time that the follower roller 136 rideson the dwells 128 and of the companion cam 124, during which time thetape is stationary, [as previously described. It will be understood thatthe cam 126 is provided with suitable low portions, intermediateportions and a high portion to eflfect said oscillation of the needleassembly.

Fig. 6A is a diagrammatic illustration which schematically shows thedifferent peripheral portions of the cam 126 and also illustrates theneedle movements controlled thereby. The circle 126A represents theperipheral portions of said cam having a minimum radial dimension, thecircle 126B represents the peripheral portions having an intermediateradial dimension and the circle 126C represents the peripheral portionhaving a maximum radial dimension. At the beginning of the hook sewingcycle, when the follower roller 136 is engaged in the notch 134 of thecam 124, the follower roller 226 abuts a minimum radial or lowperipheral portion 126A of the cam 126 so that the needle 52A ispositioned outwardly of the hook arm 70, as illustrated by the hook atthe arrow 250. As the dual cam 120 begins to rotate in the direction ofthe arrow 122, it will be apparent that the tape will stop moving due tothe engagement of the cam follower roller 136 on the high dwell 130 ofcam 124, as previously explained. Concomitantly therewith, the roller226 will ride onto an intermediate portion 126B of the cam 126, and thelink 234 will be actuated in a direction to move the needle over the arm70 and into the eyelet to form the first cross stitch 74 (Fig. 20), asillustrated by the hook at the arrow 252. Continued rotation of saidcams again brings the follower roller 226 7 in engagement with a lowportion 126A so that the needle is moved outwardly of the eyelet 64 andacross the arm 70 to form the second cross stitch 74, as indicated bythe hook at the arrow 254. Thereafter, the follower roller 226 againrides on an intermediate portion 126B to return the needle across thearm 70 and form the third cross stitch 74, as illustrated by the hook atthe arrow 256. The follower roller 226 now rides on the high portion126C of the cam 126 to continue movement of the link 234 in the samedirection in which the third cross stitch was formed, in order to formthe additional stitch 76 (Fig. 20) within the eyelet 64 and in alignmentwith said cross stitches 74, in order to bring the needle beyond thefree end of the bill 62, as illustrated by the hook adjacent the arrow258. The formation of the foregoing four stitches occurs during the timethat the follower roller 136 rides on the dwell 130 of the cam 124. Saidfollower roller now engages the notch 132 of said cam to initiate themovement of the tape to which the hook has been sewn as described. Whilethe follower roller 136 is so engaged in the notch 132, the followerroller 226 remains in engagement with the high dwell 126C of the cam 126to retain the needle 52A at its maximum innermost position relative tothe hook 56. The step movement of the tape resulting from the engagementof the follower roller 136 in the notch 132 is sufiicient to carry thehook relative to the needle so that the stitch 80 (Fig. 21) is formedacross the bridge 68 of the hook and the needle is now positioned overthe second eyelet 66. At this point, the

tape movement is again halted as the follower roller 136 rides on thedwell 128 of the cam 124. Concomitantly therewith, the follower roller226 rides off the high portion 126C and onto an intermediate portion1268 resulting in the movement of the needle relative to the eyelet 66,as illustrated by the hook adjacent the arrow 260 to form the singlecross stitch 82 (Fig. 22) in said eyelet. Thereafter, as the followerroller 226 rides on a low portion 126A the needle moves over the arm 72Ato form the first cross stitch 84, as indicated by the hook adjacent thearrow 262. Thereafter, the follower rides up onto an intermediateportion 126B and the needle moves back across the arm 72, as indicatedby the hook adjacent the arrow 264, to form the second cross stitch 84,and when the follower roller 226 returns to the starting position, as atthe arrow 250, the needle moves back across the arm 72 to form the thirdcross stitch 84. It will be noted that the needle is now in alignmentwith the position thereof at the start of the cycle, whereupon roller136 remains in engagement with the notch 134 for a sufiicient length oftime to form the series of continuous stitches, as illustrated at 86 inFig. 23, to complete the hook stitching cycle.

In addition to the dual cam 120, the shaft 114 is also provided with acam 266 (Fig. 4) which floats thereon, for a purpose hereinafterdescribed in detail. In order to provide for the selective rotation ofeither the cam 120 or the cam 266, provision is made for a dual camdriver 268 which is splined on the shaft 114 for selective engagementwith either the cam 120 or the cam 266. Driver 268 is constituted by thecam elements 270 and 272 which are separated by the recessed portion274. The cam element 270 is provided with the notches 276 adapted toreceive the projection 278 extending from the adjacent surface of thecam 124. The cam element 272 is notched, as at 280, for receiving theprojection 282 extending from adjacent surface of the cam 266. In orderto provide for the movement of the cam driver 26% to engage either thecam 120 or the cam 266, provision is made for a bell crank lever 284which is pivoted, as at 286, on a support bar 288 extending from thehousing 106. At one end thereof, the bell crank lever 284 is providedwith a follower roller 290 which is engaged in the aforementioned recess274 in the cam driver 268. A spring 292 connected to the other end ofthe bell crank lever biases the latter in a direction to move the camdriver 268 to engage with the cam 120 for rotating the latter. It willbe apparent that in this position of the cam driver 268, as illustratedin Fig. 4, the rotation of the dual cam 120 results in the previouslydescribed intermittent stops of the tape and the lateral oscillation ofthe needle for forming the various stitches across and within the hookto secure the latter'to the tape. When the bell crank lever 284 ispivoted in a direction to engage the cam 266, as hereinafter describedin detail, the latter is rotated so that a worm gear 294 thereon, whichis in mesh with a companion gear 296, will effect the rotation of thelatter as indicated by the arrow 298. The gear 296 is keyed to a shaft300 which is journaled in a frame 302 mounted on the base plate 104.

Provision is made for selectively operating the sewing machine of thepresent invention either to effect a hook stitching cycle, as previouslydescribed, or alternatively to effect a continuous stitching operationon the tape which will form a line of stitching axially along the tapefor substantially the same distance as is covered by the stitchingduring a hook stitching cycle. For this purpose, a control cam 304(Figs. 3 and 5) is keyed to the shaft 300. As is best shown in Fig. 5,the periphery of said control cam, as now constructed, is constituted bytwelve linear and angularly related segments or flat peripheral portions306, each of which is provided with a radially extending centrallydisposed tapped bore 308. Each of the flats 306 is adapted to receive acam element 310 which may be removably secured thereon by a countersunkbolt 312 threaded into the underlying bore 308. As best illustrated inFig. 3, it will be noted that the cam elements 310 extend laterally ofthe surface of the cam 304 in the direction of the arrow 314 in Fig. 3.The cam elements 310 are adapted to engage a cam follower roller 316which depends from the cam follower 318 which is pivotally mounted onthe frame 302, as at 320. It will be understood that when the roller 316is engaged by a cam element 316, the follower 318 pivots in thedirection of the arrow 314 in Fig. 3. Said follower is also providedwith an additional roller 322 which extends upwardly therefrom and isdisposed in a recess 324 formed in a driving cam 326 which is splined onthe shaft 328. Said shaft is journaled in suitable bearing portions ofthe frame 302, as indicated at 330. In order to effect the rotation ofsaid shaft, the latter is provided with a gear 332 which is in mesh witha gear 334. Gear 334 is keyed to the continuously rotatable shaft 114 sothat the shaft 328 is continuously rotatable during the operation of themachine. A spring 336 provided on the shaft 328, between the collar 333thereon and the cam 326, biases the latter toward a dual cam unit 340which floats on the shaft 328. Said cam unit 340 is constituted by theintegral cams 342 and 344. A projection 346 extending from the cam 342is adapted to engage in one of the recesses 348 provided in the cam 326for driving the cam unit 340. From the foregoing, it will be apparentthat when the follower roller 316 carried by the follower 318 is engagedby a cam element 316 on the earn 304, said follower pivots in adirection to effect the disengagement of the driver cam 326 from the camunit 340 to discontinue the rotation of the latter.

The previously mentioned bell crank lever 284, which effects theengagement of the earn 268 either with the cam 120, or the cam 266, aspreviously described, is provided with a follower roller 350 which rideson the periphery of the cam 344. As best illustrated in Fig. 14, the cam344 is provided with a long high dwell portion 352, a short high dwellportion 354, and the similar low dwell portions 356 and 353. With thecam 344 rotating in the direction of the arrow 359, it will be apparentthat when the follower roller 350 rides on the low portion 356 thereof,the spring 292 will be effective to pivot the bell crank lever 284 sothat the driver cam 268 engages the cam 120 and rotates the latter, aspreviously described. It will be understood that during said engagementof the follower roller 350 on the low portion 356, the tape isstationary and the previously described three cross stitches 74, overthe arm 70 of the hook, are being formed, as well as the single stitch76 within the eyelet 64 in alignment with said three cross stitches.When the follower 350 rides on the short dwell 354, the bell crank lever284 pivots to disengage the driver cam 268 from the cam 120 and energizecam 266 to rotate the cam 304. During said engagement of the followerroller on the short dwell 354, the tape is moved sufiiciently to formthe single stitch 80 across the bridge 68 of the hook, whereupon thefollower roller engages the peripheral portion 358 of the cam 344.During said latter engagement, the bell crank lever 284 is again pivotedto effect the rotation of the cam 120, for forming the single stitch 82in the eyelet 66, as well as the three cross stitches 84 over the arm72. The follower roller 350 now rides on the long dwell 352, so that thebell crank lever 284 is again pivoted to de-energize the cam 120 andenergize the cam 266. During this period, the tape continues to move andthe continuous stitches 86 are formed longitudinally of the tape tocomplete the hook sewing cycle.

Fig. 15 illustrates the position of the follower roller 350 on the cam344 at the end of a hook sewing cycle, it being noted that at this pointthe follower roller is positioned so that the cam 120 is de-energizedand the tape is being continually fed through the machine. Fig. i1-lustrates the position of the follower roller 316 on the follower 318 atthe start of a hook stitching cycle.

In order to provide a hook stitching cycle, it will be apparent that thedriving cam 268 must be moved by the bell crank lever 284 intoengagement with the cam 120, which controlled both the lateraloscillation of the needle, as well as the intermittent stops of thetape. Moreover, in order to operate the bell crank lever 284 for therequired energization of the cam 120, it is necessary that the cam 344be energized for an operating cycle thereof, as previously described.The energization of the cam 344 is dependent upon the engagement of thecontinuously rotating driving cam 326 with the cam unit 340. Since thedriver 326 engages the cam unit 340, of which the cam 344 is an integralpart, only during the period that the roller 316 on the follower 318 isdisengaged by one of the cam elements 310 on the control cam 304, itwill be apparent that the presence or absence of a cam element 310determines whether the machine shall operate through a hook stitchingcycle or through a continuous sewing cycle. As previously indicated,Fig. 15 represents the position of the cam 344 relative to its followerroller 350 at the end of a hook sewing cycle, at which time the cam 124is positioned, as in Fig. 6, with the follower roller 136 engaged in thenotch 134 thereof. Assuming now that the follower roller 316 ispositioned between two cam elements 310, as illustrated in Fig. 5, itwill be apparent that the driving cam 326 will be urged by the spring336 to energize cam units 340 and its integral cam element 344 to rotatethrough a hook stitching cycle, as previously described. During saidcycle, the bell crank lever 284 is operated by the cam element 344 in adirection to de-energize the cam 120 for forming the single stitch 80across the bridge of the hook and for forming the continuous stitching86 along the tape after the second series of cross stitches 84 iscompleted. During these periods of inactivity of the cam 120, the drivercam 268 energizes the cam 266 which, in turn, results in the ro tationof the control cam 304 so that at the end of said hook stitching cyclethe follower roller 316 is engaged by the next cam element 310A (Fig. 5)to de-energize the cam 344 and leave said cam in the position thereofindicated in Fig. 15, cam 124 remaining in the position thereofillustrated in Fig. 6. This results in a cycle of continuous stitchingaxially of the tape, while the cam element 310A rotates past the engagedfollower roller 316, and the speed of rotation of the cam 304 plus thespeed of movement of the tape is such that approximate- 1y /8 of an inchof continuous stitching occurs from the end of the prior hook stitchingcycle. It will be apparent that if the follower 316 is now disengaged bythe cam element 310A, a hook stitching cycle will be commenced.Therefore, through the selective positioning of the cam elements 310 onthe cam 4, various desired arrangements of hooks stitched to the tapemay be obtained. For example, where all the cam elements 310 are removedfrom the cam 304, there will be a continuous series of hooks sewn on thetape, the hooks being spaced apart by approximately /8 of an inchintervals. If every flat 306 is covered by a cam element 310, there willbe a continuous axial stitching of the tape without the sewing of anyhooks thereon. Wth alternate cam elements 310 and alternate uncoveredflats 306, as illustrated in Fig. 5, there will be a series of hookssewn to the tape, the hooks being separated by approximately 1% inches.With the use of eight cam elements 310, which are secured in pairs onthe cam 304, each pair beingseparated by an uncovered flat 306, therewill be a series of hooks sewn on the tape, the hooks being separated byapproximately 1% inches of stitching. With four cam elements 310 beingused, so that adjacent elements are separated by two uncovered flats,the result will be a hook arrangement as illustrated in Fig. 23A, withthe hooks paired on the tape, the individual hooks of each pair beingspaced apart by approximately of an inch between their bills, and thespace between the bills of adjacent hooks of adjacent pairs beingapproximately 1% inches. The use of three cam elements 310, each ofwhich is separated from the adjacent element 310 by three uncoveredflats, will result in an arrangement wherein groups of three hooks aresewn on the tape, the distance between the bills of adjacent hooks ineach group being approximately of an inch, and the distance betweenadjacent hooks of adjacent groups being approximately 1% inches frombill to bill.

Provision is made for supplying the hooks individually and in timedrelation for the stitching thereof on the tape. As hereinafter describedin detail, while a hook is being stitched to the tape, another hook isbeing deposited on the tape, from the delivery end of the chute which ispositioned laterally of the needle in a direction opposite the travel ofthe tape, as illustrated in Figs. 7 and 8, for insertion therein priorto the sewing thereof to the tape. In order to control the movement ofthe hook, after it is so deposited, use is made of the previouslymentioned cam 342 of the dual cam unit 340. A follower roller 360 (Fig.5) carried by a follower lever 362 engages the periphery of the cam 342.Said lever is keyed to a shaft 364 which is journaled in the frame 302,as at 366 (Fig. 3). A spring 368 connected between the free end of thelever 362 and a suitable point on the mechanism biases the followerroller 360 into engagement with the cam 342. At its other end, the shaft364 is provided with a crank arm 370 which rocks in response to therocking of the lever 362 by the cam 342. At its free end, the arm 370 isconnected by a link 372 (Figs. 7 and 8) to an extension 374 provided ona slide member 376 which is mounted for reciprocation in a groove 378provided in the base plate 104. The slide 376 carries an L-shaped hookpositioning member 380 which extends laterally therefrom and underliesthe shoulder member 382 carried by the base plate 104, as illustrated inFigs. 2 and 8. At its end opposite the extension 374 thereon, the slidemember 376 is provided with a post 384 on which there is mounted, as bythe bolt 386, a bracket 388 provided with a depending pin 390. The pin390 cooperates with a plate member 392 which is pivotally mounted, as at394, on a block 396 carried by the base plate 104. Said member 392 isprovided with a cam edge 398 which is engaged by the pin 390 forpivoting the member 392 as indicated by the arrow 400. A stop 402 iscarried by the block 396 for limiting the movement of the member 392 inone direction thereof. The block 396 is provided with a slide- 11 way404 and with a slot 406 which overlies a portion of said slideway. Aslide member 408 is mounted in said slideway for reciprocationtransversely of the path of reciprocation of the slide 376. The slide408 is provided with a pin member 410 which projects through the slot406 and engages in a slot 412 of the pivotally mounted member 392. Theslide 408 carries a detent 414 which engages the adjustable stop 416,provided on the block 396, for limiting movement of the slide 408 in thedirection of arrow 409. From the foregoing it will be apparent thatreciprocation of the slide 376 in the direction of the arrows 418, inresponse to the rocking of the arm 370 by the cam member 342, results inthe reciprocation of the L-shaped member 380 in the direction of thearrows 240, as well as reciprocation of the bracket 388 in the directionof the arrows 422 so that the pin 390 will ride, in opposite directions,on the cam surface 398 of the member 392 to pivot the latter in thedirection of the arrows 400. Said pivotal movements of the member 392result in the reciprocation of the slide 408 in the direction of thearrows 424, so that the slide 408 will move at right angles to thedirection of movement of the hook positioning member 380. Further, itwill be noted that the pin 390 is effective to cause the movement of theslide 408 into the block 396, in the direction of the arrow 409, as themember 380 moves away from the needle 52A, in the direction of the arrow428.

The block 396 is also provided with an arm 430 which is pivotallymounted on a side edge thereof, as at 432. A thin leaf spring 434,carried by the block as at 436, overlies the arm 430 to bias the lattertoward the base plate 104, and an adjustable stop 438 carried by saidarm limits the movement thereof toward the base plate. At its free end,the arm 430 is provided with a laterally extending and outwardlyinclined spring member 440, the function of which will presently appear.

The previously mentioned plate 382 is provided with a bar extension 442which carries the leaf spring 444 and also the leaf spring 446. Thelatter is provided with a notch 448 and, on leg 450 thereof, ischamfered, as at 452 (Fig. 13), at the side thereof which bounds thenotch.

Referring now to Fig. 19, it will be noted that the member 380 isprovided, at the free end thereof, with the long finger 454 and with theshort finger 456, and is undercut between said fingers as at 458. Itwill also be noted that the slide 408 is provided at the forward edgethereof with a notch 460.

When the tape is originally inserted into the machine, it will beunderstood that it is threaded on the tape separating member 380, asillustrated in Fig. 9, so that the short leg 94 thereof overlies saidmember, and the long leg 96 underlies said member. Moreover, it will benoted that said long leg of the tape is disposed on the upper surface ofthe base plate 104, that the short leg underlies the shoulder in themember 382, as illustrated in Fig. 2, and also underlies the springelements 444 and 446 carried by the extension 442 of the member 382. Inaddition, it will be noted that the folded side 90 of the tape isretained adjacent said member 382 by the slide 380.

As illustrated in Fig. 9, the chute 60 is positioned to deposit a hookon the long leg of the tape, in alignment with the path of movement ofthe slide 408, and laterally inwardl of the longitudinal extension ofthe L-shaped member 380. in addition, it will be noted, as illustratedin Figs. 8 and 9, that when the hook is deposited from the chute, it ispositioned rearwardly of the spring member 440 and forwardly of theslide 408, the hook also being aligned with the notch 448, in the spring446. Also, it will be noted that the side of the hook provided with thebill is on the side thereof away from the spring 440.

Referring now to Figs. 17 through 19, the hook positioner 380 is shownin its retracted position in Fig. 19,

in which the hook projector 483 is in its projected position. Fig. 17illustrates the hook positioner 380 in its 12 first projected positionand Fig. 18 shows said positioner in its second projected position, inboth of which positions the hook pusher 408 is retracted. The hookpositioner 330 moves from its position in Fig. 19 to its position inFig. 17, as the needle 52A begins to move laterally to make the firstcross stitch 74 over arm 70 of the hook 5613, it being understood thatthe position 380 is in its first projected position before the needlehas com-- pleted its descent to make said cross stitch. While thepositioner 330 is moving to said first projected position, a hook isdischarged from the chute 60, as hereinafter described in detail, andabuts the edge 462 thereof, as at 56A in Figs 17 and 18. After thestitches 74 and 76 have been formed on hook 563, the positioner 380moves from its position in Fig. 17 to its position in Fig. 18 for theformation of the stitch 80 across the bridge of the hook 568. The needlethen moves to form the stitches 82 and 84 for the hook 56B, and duringsaid stitching the positioner 330 is retracted, as in Fig. 19, and thepusher 408 is concomitantly projected to push the hook 56A behind hook56B and against the long finger 454, of the positioner 453, which servesas a backing therefor and aligns the hook 56A relative to the needle52A. At the end of the last cross stitch 84, the arms of hook 56A are onthe side of the needle toward the finger 454, as in Fig. 19. The members380 and 408 remain in said latter position while the tape advances andthe stitches 86 are formed. It will be noted that lateral movement ofhook 56A is prevented by the finger 454 and the notch 460 and movementof said hook in the direction of tape movement is prevented by itsengagement in the notch 460. If after the completion of the stitches 86,the following cycle is to be a continuous sewing cycle, and not a hookstitching cycle, the parts remain as in Fig. 19 and another hook is notfed from the chute. However, upon the commencement of another hookstitching cycle, as the needle begins to move laterally from itsposition in Fig. 19, the pusher 408 is retracted, the positioner 330 isprojected and moves hook 56A to the position of hook 568, in Fig. 17,before the needle descends to make the first stitch '74. Simultaneouslywith said advance of the positioner 330 another hook is released andabuts the edge 462 thereof, and the cycle is repeated. Since the hook,when it leaves the chute, falls onto the lower and longer leg of thetape, as previously described, the forward movement thereof by thepusher 408, will position the hook eyelets underneath the fold line 92of the tape. The finger 454, on the member 380, serves to stop saidforward movement of the hook at the point where the fold line 92 abutsthe bill 62 of the hook, as illustrated in Figs. 9, 23 and 24 to preventthe curling of the edge 92 of the tape. It will also be understood thatthe spring member 440 yields during said movement of the hook by theslide 408, so that the bill of the hook can pass thereunder after whichthe spring snaps back to its original position and engages behind thebill, as illustrated in Fig. 9, so that it will be readily apparent thatthe hook is retained against latera1 movement by both the finger 454 andthe spring 440, when pusher 403 is retracted. Furthermore, since thebill of the hook is aligned with the notch 448 of the spring member 446,as previously explained, it will be readily apparent that said forwardmovement of the hook between the legs of the tape will not be impeded bythe spring 446 which is disposed over the shorter leg of the tape, asillustrated in Figs. 12 and 13, since the bill will be positioned abovesaid shorter leg and in the notch 448. When the positioner 380 movesfrom its position in Fig. 19 to its position in Fig. 17, the hook isengaged in the undercut portion 458 thereof, the bill being engaged bythe finger 456, as illustrated by hook 56B in Fig. 17. It will be noted,as illustrated in Figs. 12 and 13, that said forward movement of thehook by the member 380 causes the bill to ride over the chamfered edge52 of the spring 446 and onto the leg 450 there- 13 of. Consequently,the spring 446 being now positioned between the bill and the tape servesas a friction hold for the hook during the cross stitching operation, itbeing also noted that the undercut portion 458 contributes to theimmobilization of the hook in this position. Referring now to Fig. 13 itwill be noted that the previously mentioned spring 444 extends for asufficient distance toward the companion spring 446 so as to engage theforward end of'the hook when the hook has been moved for sewing thesingle stitch across the bridge thereof, so that when the bill 62 of thehook rides off the arm 458 of the spring 446, during the movement to sewthe bridge stitch, the free end of the spring 444 will engage theforward end of the hook and replace the friction hold of the spring 446during the sewing of the second series of cross stitches. In thisconnection, it will be understood that the spring 444 is so dimensionedthat the longitudinal side edge 464 thereof will clear the bill of thehook, as will be evident from Fig. 12.

In order to eifect the discharge of a hook from the chute 60, inproperly timed relation for a hook sewing operation, the previouslymentioned bracket member 388 that moves with the slide member 376, isprovided with an upwardly extending part 466, Figs. 8 and 11, which isprovided with an open ended slot 468 in which there is engaged a pin470. Said pin is carried by a pivoted arm 472 so that in response to thereciprocation of the slide 376 in the direction of the arrows 418, bythe cam 342, which rotates only during a hook stitching cycle, said .armwill pivot, as indicated by the arrows 474. The arm 472 is pivotallymounted as at 476, Figs. 2 and 10, on a stud 478 carried by the chute60. Said arm is provided with a laterally extending portion 480 whichcarries a bar member 482, at the free end thereof. Said bar memberoverlies the chute to alternatively operate the curled spring fingers484 and 486 which are carried at the front surface of the chute. As bestillustrated in Figs. 7 and 10, the free ends of said fingers curl intothe longitudinal opening 488 of the chute in which the bills of thehooks are disposed. The function of the finger 486 is to hold back thehooks in the chute and to release said hooks one at a time to the finger484 which then releases the hook for travel down the chute. It will benoted that due to the pivotal movement of the arm 472, as indicated bythe arrows 474, the bar 482 will pivot, as indicated by the arrows 490,to alternately bias one or the other of the spring fingers into thechute opening 488. In the position of the bar 482, as illustrated inFig. 7, each finger is preventing the movement of a hook. Assuming nowthat the bar 482 will pivot in a direction to move the finger 486further into the chute opening 488, it will be apparent from Fig. 10,that the pressure thereof on the finger 484 will be decreased so thatthe latter will flex sufficiently away from the opening 488 to releasethe single hook retained thereby. Upon the movement of the bar 482 inthe opposite direction, the pressure on the finger 484 will be increasedto flex the latter back into the chute opening, and the finger 486 willbe permitted to flex outwardly of the opening to release one hook to thefinger 484. In view of the fact that the fingers are operatedconcomitantly with the operation of the slide 376, it will be apparentthat a hook will be released only during a hook stitching cycle sincethe control cam 340, which controls the operation of these fingers willnot rotate except during a hook stitching cycle.

Referring now to Figs. 1, and 25 through 33 in detail, the chute 60extends from the previously mentioned hopper 58, a support 492 mountedon the workbench 98 serving to mount the chute and hopper. In order todrive the hopper, a pulley 494 is provided on the previously mentionedcontinually driven shaft 114. A companion pulley 496, disposed at rightangles to the pulley 494, and mounted for rotation at the under side ofthe chute, as at 498, is operated through the driver pulley 494 by aninterconnecting belt 500, so that pulley 496 will rotate in thedirection of the arrow 502 in Fig. 26. A crank 504 is driven by thepulley 496 for reciprocation in the direction of the arrows 506. Saidcrank carries a rack 508 which is reciprocated thereby for rotating acompanion pinion gear 510, as indicated by the arrows 512. Said gear iskeyed to a shaft 514 which is journaled in a yoke 516 carried by thebottom plate 518, of the hopper, said rack extending through said yokefor movement relative thereto. A conical brush carrier 528 is disposedfor movement at the upper surface of the plate 518 and is suitablyconnected to the shaft 514 for oscillation, as indicated by the arrow522, in response to the reciprocation of the crank 504. Said brushcarrier is provided with spaced brushes 524, formed of a suitablematerial, which extend therefrom to engage the circular wall of thehopper housing 526, suitably mounted on the bottom plate 518. As hereshown, the housing is provided with a removable closure 528 forsupplying the hooks to the hopper. Said closure is provided with ahandle 530 and with a hinged window 532. The housing wall is undercut,as at 534, to accommodate portions of the guide members 536 and 538carried by the bottom plate 518, and which extend into the hopperhousing to permit the discharge therefrom of properly disposed hooks. Itwill be noted from Figs. 25 and 26 that the bottom plate hassubstantially the same configuration as the guide elements 536 and 538carried thereby.

The guide element 538 is provided, at its inner arcuate edge 540, with aslot 542 and with a recess or groove 544, it being noted from Fig. 29that the slot overlies the groove. As illustrated in Fig. 25, the slot542 tapers from a minimum to a maximum depth, the groove 544 being ofsubstantially constant depth. In response to the oscillation of thebrush carrier 52%), the hooks are constantly agitated and disentangledone from the other. It will be noted from Fig. 1 that the hopper isdisposed at an angle, with the guide elements 536 and 538 extending fromthe lower end thereof. Properly positioned hooks will be swept by thebrushes 524 into the slot 542 and the groove 544, the latter having theopen side thereof closed by the bottom plate 518 and thereforeconstituting an additional slot. The hooks can be urged into said slotsin only one of two positions. The first, and the correct position, asillustrated in Figs. 25 and 29, occurs when the body of the hook entersthe deeper slot 544, the bill entering the shallower slot 542. In thisconnection it will be understood that the tapering of slot 542 from aminimum to a maximum depth, facilitates the entry of the bill therein.In this position, the hooks will be carried by the brushes and by theaction of gravity along the arcuate inner edge 540 of the guide element538 toward the cooperating guide element 536. The latter is providedwith a nose 546, a shoulder 548 at said nose, and a recess 550 which isspaced from and cooperates with a similar recess 552 formed in the guideelement 538. A set-back 549, on the shoulder 548, extends from thelongitudinal side-edge 551 of guide element 536. With guide element 538overlying the shoulder 548 and abutting the set-back 549, as in Fig. 28,the side edge 551 of element 536 is spaced from the adjacent side edge553 of element 538 to define the opening 568 therebetween. Assuming nowthat a hook rides along the arcuate edge 540 of the guide element 538,so that the bill is in the slot 542 and the body thereof is in the slot544, as illustrated in Fig. 29, the latter when moving in the directionof the arrow 554, in Fig. 28, will clear the nose 546 of the guidemember 536, passing through a channel formed between the shoulder 548and the underlying arcuate edge portion, until the bill of the hookengages an abutment portion 556 on element 536, at which point the bodyof the hook will be disposed in both the recesses 550 and 552, asillustrated in Figs. 28 and 31, the hook falling by gravity down thechute formed at this point by the bottom plate 518 and the recesses 550and 552, the bill being disposed in the opening 560.

'In the event that a hook is disposed in said other posi- 15 tionthereof in the guide element 538, namely wherein the body of the hookrides into the short slot 542', it will be apparent that the hook willproject sufficiently outwardly from the arcuate edge 540 to beintercepted by the nose 546 and rejected from the chute.

The recesses 55% and 552 and the opening 56% therebetween whichaccommodates the bill of the hook, as illustrated in Fig. 31, arealigned with the chute 60 which is constituted by a bottom plate 562(Fig. 10) and provided with the central groove 564 to accommodate thebody of the hook. The spaced guide strips 566 and 563 are secured to themember 564, partially overlie the groove thereof, and define the chuteopening 488 to accommodate the hook bills.

In order to assure that the hooks of a maximum predetermined eyeletdimension only will arrive at the machine, to assure the requiredtolerance between the hook and the needle, the chute 69 is provided witha gauge device 570 (Fig. 33). More specifically, the chute plate 562' isprovided, at this point, with the same overall thickness, to eliminatethe previously described hook recess 564. The guide strips 566 and 568are cut away at this point, and in place thereof, the laterallyadjustable gauge members 572 and 57 4 are mounted on the plate 562 bythe screws 576. Said gauge members are slotted, as at 573, to permitlimited lateral movement of the gauge elements to predetermine thedistance between the confronting surfaces thereof. It will be readilyapparent that the distance between said confronting surfaces willdetermine the maximum clearance for the passage of hooks through thechute. A transparent door 580 is hinged to the chute and overlies thegauge elements so that the operator can readily observe the presence ofimproperly sized hooks and remove them from the chute.

While my invention has been described in connection with a hook having apair of hook eyelets and an intermediate bill, it will be apparent thatthe apparatus of the present invention is not limited to the sewing ofhooks of said specific construction.

While I have shown and described the preferred embodiments of myinvention, it will be understood that various changes may be made in thepresent invention without departing from the underlying idea orprinciples of the invention within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, What I claim and desire to secure byLetters Patent, is:

l. A hopper for billed hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brushcarrier mounted for oscillation on said wall, guide members extendingfrom said wall through said housing, and means provided on said guidemembers for disposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereoffor passage through said housing, said means comprising an arcuate edgeportion provided on one of said members and disposed in said housing,said portion having a first slot extending from a minimum to a maximumdepth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slot of asubstantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth, providedon said one member for receiving the body of the hook.

2. A hopper for billed hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brushcarrier mounted for oscillation on said wall, guide members extendingfrom said wall through said housing, and means provided on said guidemembers for disposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereoffor passage through said housing, said means comprising an arcuate edgeportion provided on one of said members and disposed in said housing,said portion having a first slot extending from a minimum to a maximumdepth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slot of asubstantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth, providedon said one member for receiving the body of the hook, and a partprovided on the other of said members adjacent the maximum depth of saidfirst slot, said partbeing spaced from said arcuate edge to form achannel large enough to permit 16 the passage only of a hook having itsbill in said first slot.

3. A hopper for billed hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brushcarrier mounted for oscillation on said wall, guide members extendingfrom said wall through said housing, and means provided on said guidemembers for disposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereoffor passage through said housing, said means comprising an arcuate edgeportion provided on one of said members and disposed in said housing,said portion having a first slot extending from a minimum to a maximumdepth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slot of asubstantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth, providedon said one member for receiving the body of the hook, and a partprovided on the other of said members adjacent the maximum depth of saidfirst slot, said part being spaced from said arcuate edge to form achannel large enough to permit the passage only of a hook having itsbill in said first slot, said guide members having spaced portionsextending from said channel and defining an open chute for said hooks.

4. A hopper for billed hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brushcarrier mounted for oscillation on said wall, guide members extendingfrom said wall through said housing, and means provided on said guidemembers for disposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereoffor passage through said housing, said means comprising an arcuate edgeportion provided on one of said members and disposed in said housing,said portion having a first slot extending from a minimum to a maximumdepth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slot of asubstantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth, providedon said one member for receiving the body of the hook, and a partprovided on the other of said members adjacent the maximum depth of saidfirst slot, said part being spaced from said arcuate edge to form achannel large enough to permit the passage only of a hook having itsbill in said first slot, said guide members having spaced portionsextending from said channel and defining an open chute for said hooks,an extension chute extending from said guide members in communicationwith the chute therebetween, and an adjustable gauge mechanism providedin said extension chute for preventing the passage therethrough of hookswhich are wider than a predetermined width.

5. A sewing machine for securing hooks of the type having spaced eyeletsand a centrally disposed bill to a folded tape, said machine comprisingmeans mounting a needle both for vertical reciprocation and for lateraloscillation, means for moving said tape relative to said needle, meansfor inserting a hook in said tape with the bill thereof overlying saidtape, means for moving said inserted hook to said needle, means forinterrupting the movement of said tape, means for operating said needleacross the hook eyelets through a hook stitching cycle for sewing thehook in the tape, and means operable in timed relation with said hookmoving means for depositing another hook for insertion in said tape,said hook depositing means comprising a hook chute having mechanismoperable in timed relation to said hook inserting means and a hopper forbilled hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brush carrier mountedfor oscillation on said wall, guide members extending from said wallthrough said housing and means provided on said guide members fordisposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereof for passagethrough said housing to said chute, said guide member means comprisingan arcuate edge portion provided on one of said members and disposed insaid housing, said portion having a first slot extending from a minimumto a maximum depth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slotof a substantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth,provided on said one member for receiving the body of the hook.

6. A sewing machine for securing hooks of the type having spaced eyeletsand a centrally disposed bill to a longitudinally folded tape, saidmachine comprising means mounting a needle both for verticalreciprocation and for lateral oscillation, means for moving said taperelative to said needle, means for inserting a hook in said tape withthe bill thereof overlying said tape, means for moving said insertedhook to said needle, means for interrupting the movement of said tape,means for operating said needle across to the hook eyelets through ahook stitching cycle for sewing the hook in the tape, and means operablein timed relation with said hook moving means for depositing anotherhook for insertion in said tape, said hook depositing means comprising ahook chute having mechanism operable in timed relation to said hook anda hopper for billed hooks comprising a housing having a wall, a brushcarrier mounted for oscillation on said wall, guide members extendingfrom said wall through said housing, and means provided on said guidemembers for disposing said hooks in predetermined disposition thereoffor passage through said housing, said means comprising an armate edgeportion provided on one of said members and disposed in said housing,said portion having a first slot extending from a minimum to a maximumdepth for receiving the bill of a hook, and a second slot of asubstantially constant depth, greater than said maximum depth,

provided on said one member for receiving the body of the hook, and apart provided on the other of said members adjacent the maximum depth ofsaid first slot, said part being spaced from said arcuate edge to form achannel large enough to permit the passage only of a hook having itsbill in said first slot, said guide members having spaced portionsextending from said channel and defining an open chute for said hooks,and said open chute being in communication with said first mentionedchute.

7. A sewing machine for producing fastener tapes in which the fastenershave a securing portion concealed between overlying tape parts and anexposed operative portion, said machine comprising sewing mechanism,means for advancing the tape relative to the sewing mechanism, means forseparating the tape parts, means for positioning a fastener elementbetween the separated tape parts with the operative portion thereofexposed, and means for operating said sewing mechanism to sew thefastener element in position between the tape parts, said separatingmeans being movable longitudinally of said tape relative to said sewinmechanism to advance the inserted fastener element longitudinally of thetape to said sewing mechanism into position for the sewing thereof tothe tape.

8. In a machine for sewing fastener elements to tape,

sewing mechanism including a needle, means for feeding folded tape froma supply thereof to said sewing mechanism, means for inserting fastenerelements within said tape in advance of said sewing mechanism, andmeansoperable in timed relation to said inserting means for advancingeach inserted fastener element a predetermined distance within said tapetoward said sewing mechanism for positively positioning each fastenerelement in proper disposition for the stitch forming descents of saidneedle.

9. In a machine for sewing fastener elements to tape, sewing mechanismincluding a needle, means for feeding folded tape from a supply thereofto said sewing mechanism, means for inserting fastener elements withinsaid tape in advance of said sewing mechanism, and means operable intimed relation to said inserting means for advancing each insertedfastener element a predetermined distance within said tape toward saidsewing mechanism for positively positionin eachfastener element inproper disposition for the stitch forming descents of said needle, saidadvancing means comprising a member adapted to be positioned within thefolded tape and movable longitudinally thereof relative to said needle.

l0. In a machine for sewing fastener elements to tape;

sewing mechanism including a needle, means for feeding 18 ism, means forinserting fastener elements within said tape in advance of said sewingmechanism, and means operable in timed relation to said inserting meansfor advancing each inserted fastener element a predetermined distancewithin said tape toward said sewing mechanism for positively positioningeach fastener element in proper disposition for the stitch formingdescents of said needle,-

said advancing means comprising a member adapted to be positioned withinthe folded tape and movable longitudinally thereof relative to saidneedle, said inserting means comprising a member mounted for movementtransversely of said advancing member and said latter member beingoperable to space overlying portions of the folded tape' to facilitatethe insertion of the fastener elements therein by said inserting member.

11. In a machine for'sewing fastener elements to tape, sewing mechanismincluding a needle, means for feeding folded tape from a supply thereofto said sewing mechanism, means for inserting fastener elements withinsaid tape in advance of said sewing mechanism, and means operable intimed relation to said inserting means for advancing each insertedfastener element a predetermined distance within said tape toward saidsewing mechanism for positively positioning each fastener element inproper disposition for the stitch forming descents of said needle, saidadvancing means comprising a member adapted to be positioned within thefolded tape and movable longitudinally thereof relative to said needle,said inserting means comprising a member mounted for movementtransversely of said advancing member and said latter member being oprable to s ce overlyin ortions of the f lded tape'to facilitate theinsertion of the fastener elements therein by said inserting member, anda detent portion provided on said advancing member to limit theinsertion of the fastening elements into the tape.

12. In a machine for sewing on tape hooks of the type having a base anda bill projecting from said base, sewing mechanism including a needle,means for feeding folded tape from a supply thereof to said sewingmechanism, means for inserting said hooks within said tape in advance ofsaid sewing mechanism with the base of each hook disposed within thefolded tape and the hook bill projecting therefrom, means operable intimed relation to said inserting means for advancing each hook apredetermined distance within said tape toward said sewing mechanism forpositively positioning each hook in proper disposition for the stitchforming descents .of said needle,

and means to operate said tape feeding means and said needle to providestitching both transversely and longitudinally of said tape for sewingthe base of each hook into the tape.

13. In a machine for sewing on tape hooks of the type having a base anda bill projecting from said base, sewing mechanism including a needle,means for feeding folded tape from a supply thereof to said sewingmechanism, means for inserting said hooks within said tape in ad- Vanceof said sewing mechanism with the base of each hook disposed within thefolded tape and the hook bill projecting therefrom, means operable intimed relation to said inserting means for advancing each hook a firstand then a second predetermined distance within said tape toward saidsewing mechanism for positively positioning each hook in a first andthen in a second proper disposition for the stitch forming descents ofsaid needle, means for temporarily interrupting the feed of said tape tostop the advance thereof when each hook is in each of said properdispositions thereof, and means to actuate said needle transversely ofthe tape during said interruptions in the tape movement for theproduction of transverse stitching across spaced portions of'each hookbase, 14. A sewing machine for securing hooks .of the type having a baseformed by spaced eyelets and a centrally disposed bill to a folded tape,said machine comprising,- sewing mechanism including a needle mountedboth for' Vertical reciprocation and for lateral oscillation, means

